While waiting on favorable weather to make the move to
Puerto Vallarta with Joel and the good ship Lady Ann, the opportunity arose to
head up to the city of Oaxaca, with a few other travelers we met, for the Dia
de los Muertos festivities.
If you are not familiar with what Dia de los Muertos is, I’ll
give a brief explanation of what it is all about. Here in Mexico, to honor and
remember loved ones that have passed on they have reserved the first and second
of November to celebrate (not mourn!) their lives. Traditionally families build
altars at home or at the gravesites of the deceased. These altars are adorned
with marigolds, candles, pictures, and some of the favorite things of the
deceased (including but not limited to candy, cigarettes, foods, and beverages,
possibly beer and tequila!) The first night of festivities is focused on
children and the second is “all saints”. On each night, families go to the
graves of their loved ones and “wait” for them to arrive. They stay all night
and pray, eat, and drink “with” them. In town is a whole other story… there are
parades, vendors, and bands all full of the trademark energy of any Mexican
fiesta.
First step. Get tickets on the “vomit van” from Huatulco to
Oaxaca. (So named due to the sickness some may experience due to the 6 hour
winding road over the Sierra Madres) Our travel crew consisted of a couple from
Las Vegas, Karolina and Spencer, who have been traveling through Central
America for the last few months, Jorge from PV, a Mexican who spends his
free time touring around his Country, and obviously, ourselves, and Torch. Torch
earned a badge on this one, as he had to ride in his crate strapped to the top
of the van and managed not to get sick. He did have the best view.
On arrival head to the Mercado for a Oaxacan style hot
chocolate y pan de muerto!
Perhaps indulge in a bit of mezcal before heading out for
the night…
to mingle with the “locals”…
The second day we were there our friend Mili, who had
arrived from Puerto Escondido, met up with us. She had found the bus that would
take us to the nearby archaeological site of Monte Alban. Monte Alban is home
to some of the ruins of the Zapotec Indians. It was both Marc and I’s first time
visiting ruins and they were quite impressive. They are built on top of the
mountain with a 360 degree view of the surrounding valleys. Interesting to wrap
your mind around the daily comings and goings of a culture so old and distant
from our own.
With our crew we continued to tour around the city. We
visited the cathederal, which no city in Mexico is without, and this one is
especially noteworthy due to the amount of gold adorning its interior.
Got some inspiration for next years Halloween costumes while
wandering the zocalo.
More friends from Puerto, Eli and Kiki joined up that night
and we took a walk to one of the local cemetaries. The cemetery grounds were
packed with locals and visitors alike. It was beautifully lit with hundreds of
votives along two walls and music drifting through.
One grave we happened upon
had a mariachi band in full swing and cocktails being poured for family,
friends, and strangers alike. Seeing as we fell into one of the eligible
categories for refreshments we struck up conversation with some of the people milling
about. It seems Alejandro had passed 17 years before and every year they throw
a hoo-ha “with” him. As he loved music and people, it is the way he would have
wanted it they claimed. Begs the question “how will you be remembered?” I
realized with the company I keep I better start stockpiling booze now!
All in all it was a three day whirlwind of sights, sounds,
smells, and a heap of great memories. Not having spent much time in a city in
the past year, it really took it out of us. Damn, I sound old.
